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What does glycolic acid do for your skin? Uses, benefits and tips

medico-author

Written byMedico Digital

Dr Guy Ratu

Reviewed byDr Guy Ratu

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Glass skin goals? If you’re looking for brighter, more even skin, glycolic acid could be the answer. This gentle but effective acid has been loved for decades

Summary

1What does glycolic acid do for your skin?

Want smoother, brighter skin? Discover how glycolic acid works beneath the surface to refresh and renew your complexion…

2What are the potential benefits of glycolic acid?

From dark spots to dullness and fine lines, glycolic acid could be the multi-tasking hero your skincare routine is missing…

3Who can benefit from glycolic acid?

Got sensitive skin? You don’t have to miss out! Glycolic acid can still deliver glow, smoothness and clarity with the right approach…

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Missing that shine in your skincare routine

Known for its exfoliating properties, deep skin penetration and ability to help with sun exposure damage, glycolic acid might just be the next best addition.1

Chemical peels like glycolic acid could be a great choice if you’re looking to brighten your complexion, improve skin texture or even combat the signs of skin ageing.2

Let’s dive into glycolic acid’s potential benefits and explore how to use it safely as part of your daily routine.

What does glycolic acid do for your skin?

First things first, let’s explore the basics of glycolic acid – what exactly is it?

Glycolic acid is an alpha-hydroxy acid (or AHA) derived from sugarcane.3 Thanks to its tiny molecular size, it can penetrate deeper into the skin than other AHAs, meaning it’s great for exfoliating the skin and cell renewal.2

Like all AHAs, glycolic acid works by breaking down the bonds between dead skin cells at the skin’s surface, unveiling the brighter, smoother skin beneath.2

Get ready to unlock a radiant glow as we explore the world of glycolic acid.

What are the potential benefits of glycolic acid?

AHAs like glycolic acid have been a go-to skincare solution for over five decades.3 Let’s take a closer look at some of its potential benefits:

It could improve spots

Calling everyone struggling with spots: it might be time to consider adding glycolic acid to your skincare routine. It could help to clear both inflamed and non-inflamed breakouts, while also smoothing skin texture for a more even complexion.2

That said, everyone’s skin is different, and some people may experience side effects like redness, dryness or peeling. But don’t worry – with patience and the right approach, glycolic acid could be your secret weapon for achieving the clearer, glowing skin you deserve.2
 

It may reduce skin pigmentation

If you’re dealing with melasma – those stubborn greyish patches that often appear on the face – or with dark spots and uneven skin tone, glycolic acid may help fade discolouration over time. By gently shedding dead skin cells and promoting cell renewal, glycolic acid works to reveal the fresher, more radiant skin underneath.2

Not only can it help diminish unwanted pigmentation, but glycolic acid may also support overall skin luminosity, giving you that healthy, lit-from-within glow.4
 

It may have anti-ageing effects

Looking for a way to keep your skin looking youthful? Research suggests that this powerful AHA can help soften fine lines, smooth out wrinkles and even target those pesky crow’s feet, revealing a fresher, more rejuvenated complexion.5

But the benefits don’t stop there. With consistent use, glycolic acid may also stimulate collagen production, one of the key building blocks of firm, plump skin. By supporting your skin’s natural elasticity, it helps maintain that smooth, bouncy look, making it an excellent addition to any age-defying skincare routine.2
 

Can I use glycolic acid on sensitive skin?

If you have delicate skin, don’t worry – you can still enjoy the benefits of glycolic acid with a little extra care.6
Female with blank expression looking away from the camera
It’s always a good idea to start slow and listen to your skin as researchers continue to refine the ideal concentration for maximum results with minimal side effects.2

That said, glycolic acid is definitely worth considering if you’re looking to brighten your complexion, smooth fine lines or tackle spot-prone skin.2

How to use glycolic acid in your skincare routine

To get started, pick a glycolic acid product that suits your needs, whether it’s a cleanser, toner or gel. Here are some key tips to make the most of it:6
  • use a low concentration: EU guidelines recommend using glycolic acid safely at concentrations up to 4% and a pH ≥3.8, so keep an eye out for those numbers
  • use sunscreen: glycolic acid can make your skin more sensitive to the sun, so daily SPF (ideally 50) is non-negotiable and you should avoid direct sun exposure if you’ve used glycolic acid
  • prevent eye contact: avoid getting your glycolic acid products near your eyes

Potential side effects or precautions when using glycolic acid

While glycolic acid may offer impressive skin benefits, it can also cause redness, peeling or irritation, especially when overused. Always patch-test new products and moisturise regularly to counteract dryness. Most importantly, don’t skip sunscreen, as glycolic acid can make your skin more sensitive to the sun.2

Though promising, more research is needed to fully understand how AHAs like glycolic acid affect the absorption of other skincare ingredients, their impact on the skin’s response to sun exposure and their long-term safety.6

How often should you use glycolic acid?

Evidence suggests that using too much or too strong a glycolic acid formula may cause irritation to the skin. So, while lower strengths (8–10%) may be safe for daily use, moderate to higher strengths offer more intense exfoliation and may be better for occasional use.1

Glycolic acid can be used daily in lower concentrations but should be adjusted based on your skin type and tolerance. If you’re new to it, start with a lower strength a few times a week and gradually increase usage.1

As with any skincare regimen, the best approach is to follow product instructions carefully and consult a dermatologist for personalised advice tailored to your unique skin type.

The final say

Glycolic acid is a skincare ingredient that may rejuvenate and transform the appearance of your skin. By introducing it thoughtfully into your routine, starting slowly, using low-concentration products and remembering to wear SPF 50, you could soon be enjoying its full benefits.6

Now you’re in the know about glycolic acid, why not explore other skincare wonders like hyaluronic acid?

Disclaimer

This article provides informational advice and is not a substitute for medical care. Curated by experts for accuracy, we take great care to ensure the information is up-to-date and relevant. However, you should always consult your GP or healthcare professional before using supplements or alternative products, particularly if you have medical conditions or are under supervision.
 

Sources

1. Narda M, et al. Glycolic acid adjusted to pH 4 stimulates collagen production and epidermal renewal without affecting levels of proinflammatory TNF-alpha in human skin explants. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2020;20(2):513-521. https://doi.org/10.1111/jocd.13570
2. Almeman AA. Evaluating the efficacy and safety of alpha-hydroxy acids in dermatological practice: A comprehensive clinical and legal review. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2024;17:1661–85. https://doi.org/10.2147/CCID.S453243
3. Egli C, et al. The hydroxy acids: Where have we been and what’s new? Dermatol Rev. 2023;4:260–7. https://doi.org/10.1002/der2.217
4. Houshman EB. Effect of glycolic acid, phytic acid, soothing complex containing emulsion on hyperpigmentation and skin luminosity: A clinical evaluation. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2021;20(3):776–80. https://doi.org/10.1111/jocd.13950
5. Rouvrais C, et al. Antiaging efficacy of a retinaldehyde‐based cream compared with glycolic acid peel sessions: A randomized controlled study. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2018;17(6):1136–43. https://doi.org/10.1111/jocd.12511
6. SCCNFP. Updated position paper concerning consumer safety of alpha-hydroxy acids [Internet]. [cited 2025 Jan 24]. Available from: https://ec.europa.eu/health/ph_risk/committees/sccp/documents/out284_en.pdf
 

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